- Joined
- Sep 15, 2016
- Location
- Plymouth, UK
Looks even better in VR 
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Been after one of these for ages.
- Thread starter Bruce
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2016
- Location
- Plymouth, UK
I got hold of a second hand G25 wheel and hub, as I had to butcher the original to wire up the QR hub. As well as allowing me to put the whole lot back to standard, this gave a couple of spare wheel buttons which I mounted to the brown wheel at the top of this thread and wired it up to work with the QR hub the same as my black wheel.
Also my brass encoder wheel arrived this morning. The original appeared to have no cracks but it was loose. It was not quite falling of, but was turning on the shaft and pulled of with virtually no resistance. The new brass version was tight (very) and took some care to fit, but this isn't going anywhere. So the wheel should last a few more years and remain accurate.
While I had the top off I used a circuit tester to find where the break was, and it was in the wires between the wheel and PCB. I found a piece of wire to bypass the broken wire, but decided to remove the PCB to give me more access, I pulled the wire out of the hub ready to bypass and noticed a cut in the sheathing where it went through the leaf spring for the paddle shifters. I peeled the covering back and was presented with this. All I needed to do in the end was put in a short piece wire to bridge the gap. Put some extra protection over the wires and this time all should be good to go with 2 functioning buttons on each wheel.
I'll be putting all this back together tomorrow, so all should be up and running for my next race. All this has given me something to do while I am stuck at home shielding and has saved me a few hundred squid for a new wheel. Plus I get to keep using my full size wheels.
Also my brass encoder wheel arrived this morning. The original appeared to have no cracks but it was loose. It was not quite falling of, but was turning on the shaft and pulled of with virtually no resistance. The new brass version was tight (very) and took some care to fit, but this isn't going anywhere. So the wheel should last a few more years and remain accurate.
While I had the top off I used a circuit tester to find where the break was, and it was in the wires between the wheel and PCB. I found a piece of wire to bypass the broken wire, but decided to remove the PCB to give me more access, I pulled the wire out of the hub ready to bypass and noticed a cut in the sheathing where it went through the leaf spring for the paddle shifters. I peeled the covering back and was presented with this. All I needed to do in the end was put in a short piece wire to bridge the gap. Put some extra protection over the wires and this time all should be good to go with 2 functioning buttons on each wheel.
I'll be putting all this back together tomorrow, so all should be up and running for my next race. All this has given me something to do while I am stuck at home shielding and has saved me a few hundred squid for a new wheel. Plus I get to keep using my full size wheels.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2016
- Location
- Plymouth, UK
Too true; took the pictures with my Cubot X18 Plus (obscure and cheapish, Chinese smart phone, that cost less than a 1/6 of the price of my wife's smaller iPhone). I put it together (and took it apart) in the kitchen so other than testing the wiring could not test it as the power unit is built into my rig 2 stories up.
After I had it all together I took it upstairs and plugged it all into my rig. while all the buttons (2 of them) now work. The wheel would not self calibrate; it turned from lock to lock (as usual) but stopped at the end and would not centre! I was gutted. I checked the YouTube videos to see if I missed anything but found nothing. I did seem to remember something though; for some reason the recess where the holes are was on the other side of the wheel on the brass replacement. The plastic one sits in the centre of the gap in the PCB, but I sort of remembered reading something about moving this on to the edges of the gap to allow for this. I had put the disc further on but clearly not enough. I had to take the covers of the wheel again (and remove all my QR mechanism) I then moved the wheel a further 0.25mm so one could barely get a ciggie paper in the gap. I then put it all back together and it works. so relieved; I had visions of digging out my old Logitech Momo Force Limited Edition.
After I had it all together I took it upstairs and plugged it all into my rig. while all the buttons (2 of them) now work. The wheel would not self calibrate; it turned from lock to lock (as usual) but stopped at the end and would not centre! I was gutted. I checked the YouTube videos to see if I missed anything but found nothing. I did seem to remember something though; for some reason the recess where the holes are was on the other side of the wheel on the brass replacement. The plastic one sits in the centre of the gap in the PCB, but I sort of remembered reading something about moving this on to the edges of the gap to allow for this. I had put the disc further on but clearly not enough. I had to take the covers of the wheel again (and remove all my QR mechanism) I then moved the wheel a further 0.25mm so one could barely get a ciggie paper in the gap. I then put it all back together and it works. so relieved; I had visions of digging out my old Logitech Momo Force Limited Edition.
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2016
- Location
- Plymouth, UK
Finally upgraded my wheel base. Got myself a Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer Ferrari 488 Challenge Edition. I've kept my Logitech pedals and shifter. Initial outings in iRacing and AC are looking good. Will see how I get on in RF2 tonight.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2012
- Location
- Albert Park, Australia
Nice one Bruce, looks great.